My Family’s Journey on the Hiawatha Rail Trail: Tunnels, Trestles, and Scenic Views

Despite living in northern Idaho for many years, there was a place I had yet to cross off my bucket list. Known for its 10 (yes, that many) tunnels, towering trestle bridges, and sweeping views of the Bitterroot Mountains, the Route of the Hiawatha earned its nickname as the “Crown Jewel” of America’s rail-to-trail. While living in the Panhandle, I was a mom of toddlers, and this 15-mile bike ride on the border of Idaho and Montana was not something I was willing to tackle.

Fast forward almost a decade, my family, now consisting of a 12-year-old son, a 9-year-old son, and a 6-year-old daughter, put this bike trail on our summer bucket list, and I was so glad we did. As a family, we conquered this epic rail trail in Idaho, and it was an experience of a lifetime. In fact, it made me fall in love with Idaho all over again.

What is the Route of the Hiawatha?

The Route of the Hiawatha, better known as the Hiawatha Trail, is a 15-mile, one-way trail in northern Idaho and Montana, that's approximately 70 miles from Coeur d’Alene and 25 miles from the small town of Wallace. This trail follows a former Northern Pacific Railroad grade through the beautiful Bitterroot Mountains. People travel all over the country to ride this popular biking trail as it provides jaw-dropping scenic views, 10 tunnels, and seven sky-high trestle bridges.

Things to know about the Hiawatha Trail

The Hiawatha Trail is mostly downhill and perfect for bikers of all skill levels. In fact, my six-year-old completed the 15-mile ride with ease. But before you hop on this bike trail, it does require a little planning. This trail is typically only open from mid-May until mid-September each year. It is open seven days a week from 8:30 a.m. to 4:15 p.m. Pacific Standard Time, which is important as it sits right on a time zone boundary.

Reservations are strongly encouraged, and you must purchase a trail pass ticket. You are welcome to ride your bike both ways, turning your 15-mile ride into 30 miles, or you can purchase a shuttle ticket to take you back to the top of the trail. All riders must have a light as the tunnels are extremely dark, and helmets are strongly recommended and required for any rider under the age of 18.

Why I fell in love with the Hiawatha Trail

We chose to tackle the trail on a Tuesday morning and began at the Taft Trailhead, the most popular starting destination. My group consisted of myself, my husband, my three children, and my parents. I am not a big bike rider, nor is my mom or my 6-year-old daughter. However, my son is a competitive mountain bike racer, and both my husband and father mountain bike as well. They were in much better shape than the rest of us. So, needless to say, there were some nerves as we didn’t know what to expect and 15 miles is a long way to go.

We checked in at the trailhead, picked up our shuttle passes, used the restroom, and turned on our lights. Immediately, you enter the Taft Tunnel, a 1.66-mile-long tunnel that is completely dark. I have never ridden in a tunnel that dark and that long before—I was surprised at how surreal it felt. It was also quite chilly, and I wished I had brought gloves for this part of the journey.

My daughter struggled with the darkness at first and didn’t like her brothers making noises just to hear their echoes. My oldest thought the flat, dark tunnel was incredible and zoomed through. However, the trail through the tunnel can be quite muddy in areas, and when he emerged, he realized just how muddy he was—his entire back was covered in mud.

As we rode, there were many others on the trail. We saw parents pulling small trailers behind their bikes with young children riding inside, many individuals on e-bikes, and several others slowly taking their time, enjoying the views just like we were. For my children (and for myself), we would regularly stop at the informational signs along the way, which share the history of the Hiawatha, tell you more about the mountains and wildlife, and point out places of interest you’ll see as you go.

We’d also stop often at the incredible clearings and overlooks, as the views were breathtaking. You are high in the mountains, and all you can see are mountains, forests, and trestle bridges in the distance. With Instagram-worthy views like these, the 15 miles of riding are so worth it.

The tunnels were unique and fun to ride through, but nothing was quite like the trestle bridges. Each one was beautiful, and I’d always stop just to take in the scenery. It’s not every day you find yourself as high as the trees next to you. The Kelly Creek Trestle, which is 230 feet high and 850 feet long, is the highest and longest of the trestle bridges you cross on your journey. This was one of my favorite spots on the trail, but looking down gave me butterflies. If you have even a slight fear of heights like me, I don't recommend looking down on any of the bridges you cross.

In total, the one-way ride took my family approximately 2.5 hours. We had lots of stops, including a snack and a restroom break, and we certainly weren’t trying to go at a fast pace. I didn’t find the trail difficult, and my kids had no issues with the ride, even though they were pretty tired that evening.

Once we arrived at the end of the trail, specifically known as the Roland parking lot, we waited for a shuttle to take us back to the top of the trail. The shuttle drops you off at the Taft Tunnel, so we got the chance to ride through the darkness once again. This time, the weather was much warmer, and the cool temperature inside felt wonderful. And, my daughter knew what to expect—she even participated in making echo noises as she rode through.

Yes, there were many others on the trail. Yes, it was tiring in places. And yes, there was downtime as we waited for a shuttle or had to fix a few bikes, but it was an adventure of a lifetime. It was a ride where every mile was filled with some of the most bucket-list worthy views in Idaho that you wouldn’t get just anywhere. It was some of the prettiest 15 miles of my life and made me fall in love with northern Idaho all over again.  

If you're new to the area (and even if you're a local), and you want to discover more places to explore, check out the Visit Idaho tourism website and fall in love with our beautiful state as I did.