When I recently met a long-time friend in my old hometown of Music City, it was quite the reunion. For this much-needed, in-person check-in after more than four years, we decided on The Butter Milk Ranch, a popular bakery and brunch restaurant in Nashville, Tennessee, along the buzzy 12 South neighborhood thoroughfare.

We both loved the mid-century look of the building and the thoughtful blend of vintage and modern finishes inside that made the atmosphere feel more classic than dated. As we expected, the place was packed for Sunday brunch - as most places in this neighborhood have been for years. The infamous angel-wings mural is a stone's throw away, as are dozens of cute shops, coffee spots, and other restaurants that lure as many or more tourists as locals.

One of those other restaurants is Urban Grub, a casual-yet-upscale dinner destination that opened in 2012. Its ownership group opened The Butter Milk Ranch in 2021, a year after my friend and I last saw one another. She'd moved to another state when a massive tornado outbreak decimated parts of my (and our friends') East Nashville neighborhood on March 3, 2020, and returned to help with cleanup. Needless to say, this meeting was under much better circumstances.

Thankfully, she'd secured an early spot on the waitlist, which is only available during business hours (you can't make reservations). We had a nice spot in the front room with plenty of filtered sunlight coming in through the building's glass front, through which we could see the busy street scene. The warm wood and generous greenery made the space feel cozy, even when full.

As for the meal, we started with breakfast cocktails - a blueberry lavender mimosa for me and a BMR Irish coffee for her - and the most light, flavorful beignets with brown butter, lemon curd, and brown butter "snow." I ordered a seasonal salad with mixed greens, beets, and tomatoes, while she ordered the Avocado Benny with hollandaise - a take on eggs Benedict using a cube croissant foundation. We shared generous side servings of cheesy stone ground grits, fresh fruit, and bacon.

We were pleased with our meal, grateful for the time together, and hugged before parting ways, neither realizing we'd been dining at a place we'd both frequented decades before. We even made small talk about it as we ate, pondering exactly what business had been in the building before and its location in proximity to the building that once housed Katy K's Ranch Dressing. Katy K's was a custom and vintage western clothier shop that was a hipster hotspot from the late '90s until 2015, when it closed due to rising rents.

Owner and designer Katy Kattelman was a noted figure in New York City fashion, music, and art circles of the 1980s, where she launched her fashion brand before moving and reestablishing it in Nashville in the early 1990s. She operated a shop in Midtown before moving to the 12th Ave. South location, where she long predated the slew of trendy shops you see there today.

As for us, it turns out we were sitting there eating scrumptious food, chatting away, while mentally trying to orient our location around the Katy K.'s landmark we both knew well from many years ago... while sitting on the site of it. If that's not indicative of people who lived through Nashville's growth boom and leaving, I do not know what is.

While The Butter Milk Ranch clearly took design cues from the original building, the façade is much larger in scale, with replicated rock wall details. Aside from a large portrait of Dolly, there were few if any other hints of cool, country kitsch that defined the vibe at Katy's - and really, much of all that was cool about Nashville in its early days of growth. Not to say it isn't now, especially to people who are delighted by different things. As for when I arrived in 1998, you just had to be there!

Despite my nostalgia, I've got nothing against this delightful bakery and brunch restaurant. To the contrary! The service was great, the food fantastic, and the atmosphere lovely - surely even more so to those who do not know or yearn for a Nashville that was.

I will certainly be back, and I might just sneak a Katy's button, a Bettie Page figurine, a kooky belt buckle, and a pair of fuzzy dice onto one of those shelves for posterity.

We'd love to hear about your visit to The Butter Milk Ranch when you go. If you're looking for a luxurious stay in the heart of downtown, consider the highly-rated JW Marriott Nashville. Located adjacent to Music City Center convention center, it's almost exactly three miles north of The Butter Milk Ranch.