There's no arguing that Hawaii is unique among the states for many reasons, and for the last quarter-century or so, I've been held in its thrall. From my home in the Midwest, I count the minutes until my next trip to the Aloha State and feel like the longer I wait between trips, the more I need to get there. And when I do go, I almost always try to include Maui as part of my itinerary. For me, Maui is the Goldilocks of the islands - it's just right in terms of natural beauty and convenience. And really, its natural beauty cannot be overstated. Take for example, one of my favorite parks in Hawaii, Waianapanapa State Park. It's simply incredible, and on my most recent trip to Maui, I just had to make the trip. So, I set off down the Hana highway on a Sunday morning (advanced reservation in hand) to find a moment of zen.
The turn-off to the park is just west of Hana - look for the sign. The road to the park is narrow, rutted, and pot-holed, so when calculating your timing allow about 15 minutes between the Hana Highway and the park entrance. It may quicker if there aren't many other cars, but I ran into some traffic, which meant a lot of stopping and taking turns on the one-lane track. You'll show your timed entry pass (more on that below) to the attendant at the booth and then find a space in the main parking lot (unless you're camping, at which point you'll proceed to your site).
And then you'll see why this place is state park The rugged, volcanic coastline is absolutely stunning. You'll find sea arches, caves, a blowhole, and a lava tube all within the park, although accessibility will depend on the surf - if it's rough, some parts of the coastline are inaccessible. But it's always beautiful!
The jagged coast is covered in lush, tropical vegetation, which softens up the appearance of the more inland portions of the park. Explore the park by hiking the three-mile, out-and-back Ke Ala Loa O Maui/Piilani Trail. It's a moderately challenging hike due to the terrain and exposed conditions, but on the other hand, there's only 200 feet of elevation. I didn't think it was too bad. Just bring plenty of water, sun protection, and real shoes - your slippahs aren't going to cut it. Download a trail map from AllTrails Plus before you go, as cell coverage can be pretty spotty in the park.
The centerpiece of Waianapanapa State Park, of course, is it's famous black sand beach. It's small, so it can get crowded sometimes, but it's kinda - and I don't use this word lightly - magical. It's such an intimate setting: the unexpectedly soft sand under your feet, the roar of the surf drowning out the voices of other visitors, and nothing to but wild coastline in your field of vision. Otherworldly, in a good way, may be the best description.
The water on this part of Maui is obscenely blue and dramatic against the black volcanic coastline of Waianapanapa. It rolls in from the open North Pacific, so it can be rough - and rogue waves are a real danger - but on calmer days, it's awesome for body surfing. Just pay attention. I got bowled over by a wave at Waianapanapa once, and lost my favorite sunglasses. I learned my lesson so you can laugh at me while avoiding the same fate.
The next time you get ready to set out on the Hana Highway, be sure to schedule a stop at Wainapanapa State Park in Hawaii. I promise that it's absolutely worth it! If you're not a Hawaii resident, you'll have to plan ahead before visiting the park - even if you just plan to stop by while driving the Road to Hana. Non-residents must make a timed entry reservation in advance on the Hawaii DLNR website. The non-resident entrance fee is $5 per person, and parking for non-residents is $10 per vehicle. No reservations or fees are required for Hawaii residents with valid state ID. The process is simple, but I would recommend planning your visit well in advance. I made mine on Thursday night for a Sunday, so my time slot options were pretty limited. I had to time my drive and my stops along the Hana Highway pretty tightly to have enough time to arrive and spend some time in the park.
Waianapanapa State Park is also home to one of my favorite campgrounds in Hawaii. Despite its remote location, it's very popular, as there are few developed campgrounds on Maui. Residents and nonresidents, alike, must make reservations for camping. The fees vary based on residency and type of accommodation visit the park's page on the Hawaii DNLR website for more information.
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