With more than 100 miles of stunning coastline, the island of Oahu is home to some of the world’s best beaches. And while we are absolutely in love with the island’s famous beaches - think Waikiki, Sunset, Lanikai, and Hanauma - sometimes we like planning our beach days around lesser-known beaches with pristine, white sand, incredible views - and fascinating history.
Nestled between Ala Moana Beach Park and the Ala Wai Boat Harbor, Magic Island Beach Park is easily one of Oahu’s most overlooked beaches. You see, tourists flock to nearby Waikiki, and most locals opt for beaches across the islands.
The 30-acre peninsula that is now this enchanting beach was constructed in 1964 over a shallow reef to be the site of a luxury resort complex that would have included two additional islands. Luckily, the resort was never built, and the land was repurposed as a public park.
You will also find walking paths ideal for an afternoon stroll, shady palm trees under which you can watch the boats travel to and from the harbor, and unsurpassed natural beauty.
In 1972, the park was renamed to Aina Moana, translating from Hawaiian to mean "land from the sea," though I’ve never heard anyone use the official name.
The sunsets from Magic Island are absolutely magnificent - though we suggest visiting on a Friday night, as you will witness two phenomenal shows in addition to one of Hawaii’s iconic sunsets: a yacht race at Ala Wai Boat Harbor, and the Friday night fireworks over Waikiki.
There's no arguing that Hawaii is unique among the states for many reasons, and for the last quarter-century or so, I've been held in its thrall. From my home in the Midwest, I count the minutes until my next trip to the Aloha State and feel like the longer I wait between trips, the more I need to get there. And when I do go, I almost always try to include Maui as part of my itinerary. For me, Maui is the Goldilocks of the islands - it's just right in terms of natural beauty and convenience. And really, its natural beauty cannot be overstated. Take for example, one of my favorite parks in Hawaii, Waianapanapa State Park. It's simply incredible, and on my most recent trip to Maui, I just had to make the trip. So, I set off down the Hana highway on a Sunday morning (advanced reservation in hand) to find a moment of zen.
The turn-off to the park is just west of Hana - look for the sign. The road to the park is narrow, rutted, and pot-holed, so when calculating your timing allow about 15 minutes between the Hana Highway and the park entrance. It may quicker if there aren't many other cars, but I ran into some traffic, which meant a lot of stopping and taking turns on the one-lane track. You'll show your timed entry pass (more on that below) to the attendant at the booth and then find a space in the main parking lot (unless you're camping, at which point you'll proceed to your site).
And then you'll see why this place is state park The rugged, volcanic coastline is absolutely stunning. You'll find sea arches, caves, a blowhole, and a lava tube all within the park, although accessibility will depend on the surf - if it's rough, some parts of the coastline are inaccessible. But it's always beautiful!
The jagged coast is covered in lush, tropical vegetation, which softens up the appearance of the more inland portions of the park. Explore the park by hiking the three-mile, out-and-back Ke Ala Loa O Maui/Piilani Trail. It's a moderately challenging hike due to the terrain and exposed conditions, but on the other hand, there's only 200 feet of elevation. I didn't think it was too bad. Just bring plenty of water, sun protection, and real shoes - your slippahs aren't going to cut it. Download a trail map from AllTrails Plus before you go, as cell coverage can be pretty spotty in the park.
The centerpiece of Waianapanapa State Park, of course, is it's famous black sand beach. It's small, so it can get crowded sometimes, but it's kinda - and I don't use this word lightly - magical. It's such an intimate setting: the unexpectedly soft sand under your feet, the roar of the surf drowning out the voices of other visitors, and nothing to but wild coastline in your field of vision. Otherworldly, in a good way, may be the best description.
The water on this part of Maui is obscenely blue and dramatic against the black volcanic coastline of Waianapanapa. It rolls in from the open North Pacific, so it can be rough - and rogue waves are a real danger - but on calmer days, it's awesome for body surfing. Just pay attention. I got bowled over by a wave at Waianapanapa once, and lost my favorite sunglasses. I learned my lesson so you can laugh at me while avoiding the same fate.
The next time you get ready to set out on the Hana Highway, be sure to schedule a stop at Wainapanapa State Park in Hawaii. I promise that it's absolutely worth it! If you're not a Hawaii resident, you'll have to plan ahead before visiting the park - even if you just plan to stop by while driving the Road to Hana. Non-residents must make a timed entry reservation in advance on the Hawaii DLNR website. The non-resident entrance fee is $5 per person, and parking for non-residents is $10 per vehicle. No reservations or fees are required for Hawaii residents with valid state ID. The process is simple, but I would recommend planning your visit well in advance. I made mine on Thursday night for a Sunday, so my time slot options were pretty limited. I had to time my drive and my stops along the Hana Highway pretty tightly to have enough time to arrive and spend some time in the park.
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Waianapanapa State Park is also home to one of my favorite campgrounds in Hawaii. Despite its remote location, it's very popular, as there are few developed campgrounds on Maui. Residents and nonresidents, alike, must make reservations for camping. The fees vary based on residency and type of accommodation visit the park's page on the Hawaii DNLR website for more information.
It's hard to imagine becoming tired of Hawai'i's sprawling beaches or verdant forests. Our state's abundant natural beauty would take a lifetime to explore. However, if you're in the mood for something truly different, I recommend visiting the other-worldly Lake Waiau. Tucked in the breathtaking Mauna Kea Ice Age Natural Area Reserve, this spectacular destination is one of the highest-altitude lakes in the United States.
Soaring at 13,020 feet above sea level on rugged Mauna Kea, Waiau is an unlikely blip in an otherwise arid — almost Martian — landscape. Stretching just 300 feet across the Pu'u Waiau cinder cone, it isn't very wide, but that doesn't make this unique lake any less significant. For all its lush forests, Hawai'i has very few lakes. Following the lower Puna eruption of Kīlauea in 2018, which evaporated Ka Wai o Pele, and barring the brief lake that appeared on the Halema'uma'u crater in 2020, Lake Waiau is the sole lake on the island of Hawai'i.
Lake Waiau is a place of spiritual significance for the Kanaka Maoli peoples. Before colonization and after the formation of the Hawai'ian kingdom, few individuals were granted access to Mauna Kea. The privilege to visit the mountain's sacred sites was reserved for religious leaders, chieftains, and royalty. The last royal known to have trekked to Waiau was Queen Emma in 1881. It's recorded that she bathed in the lake during her stay.
Waiau's other rumored visitors were even more elite. Several snow deities, including Lilinoe and Poliʻahu, were said to have used the lake for bathing. Most significant was Waiau, a snow maiden of Mauna Kea, for whom the lake likely got its name. It means "swirling water" in the Hawai'ian language.
Given this rich cultural importance, it's crucial that non-Indigenous visitors be mindful of the lake's history during their visit. As always, follow the outdoorsmen's credo to "leave no trace" and respect the trail's rules against bringing dogs along.
Clocking in at just over a mile long, the hike to Lake Waiau is relatively easy, though the high altitude may prove challenging to unconditioned adventurers. Given the rugged terrain and occasional snow, I recommend bringing reliable hiking gear to this route along with something to eat on the waterfront. Whether you believe in the ancient stories or not, it's easy to see why this small lake would inspire feelings of mysticism. It sits like a still mirror of the sky, surrounded by jagged rock formations, a breathtaking spot that instills an atmosphere of total reverence.
There are endless stunning spots to hike in Hawai'i, but if you're looking for something truly different, check out the trail to Lake Waiau. Not only is this one of the island's only lakes, but it's also one of the island's most high-altitude. Waiau is steeped in history and cultural meaning, making it a uniquely meaningful outdoor destination.
