When folks think about Haleakala National Park in Hawaii, the gorgeous sunrises and sunsets visible from the Maui volcano's summit may be the first images that spring to mind. And don't get me wrong - I love the views from the Summit District as much as the next guy. But there's something magical about the park's other side, the Kipahulu District, as well - so magical, in fact, that it drew me (and quite a few other visitors) down a narrow, pitted road beyond Hana on a rainy Saturday afternoon.
For most visitors to Maui, myself included, a visit to the Kipahulu District is usually an extension of a drive down the Hana Highway (the "Road to Hana"). Although the park is a little less than 10 miles beyond Hana, you should plan on a half-hour trip each way due to road conditions. That's about how long it took me, without stops, on my most recent visit. But you may want to take a little more time, dig your toes into the sand at Hamoa Beach, or enjoy the spray from 80-foot Wailua Falls on your face.
The Kipahulu District visitor center is a small outpost, but it's packed with information about Hawaiian culture and the area's natural history. I really enjoyed the replica meeting house located along the trail to Oheo Gulch.
The Kipahulu Unit is probably best know for the Seven Pools of Oheo, a tumbling set of pools and small waterfalls along Oheo Gulch that lead into the sea.
Due to the dangers posed by rogue waves and flash flooding, as well as the degradation of the water and stream banks from too much traffic, the pools are now closed to swimming and wading. There is a lovely, paved trail, however, that will take you along the gulch and afford some fantastic views of Oheo Gulch and the pools. It was raining when I was there - to be expected on this side of the island - but the walk was still beautiful.
Because the rain got a little heavier, I did not hike the Pipiwai Trail to Waimoku Falls on this visit, but it's definitely something that should be on your to-do list. It's moderately challenging due to the elevation (pretty much all uphill on the way to the falls) but it's stunning. The trail offers wonderful views of the stream and Haleakala, passing through a bamboo forest on the way to the falls. Cell service is not guaranteed on this part of the island, so use AllTrails Plus to download the maps for the Kipahulu District and preview the hike before you head out on the 3.4-mile, out and back trip.
It may take a little longer to get to Haleakala National Park's Kipahulu District than it does to reach most other parts of Maui, but the drive is stunning and so is this part of the park. On my most recent visit, I was reluctant to leave when I had to head back to my Paia vacation rental. On a previous visit, my traveling companion and I stayed at the wonderful Hana-Maui Resort, which is only 10 miles (30 to 45 minutes) away from the Kipahulu District in the village of Hana. Keep in mind that you do need to pay a fee to enter the park. A standard vehicle pass is $30 and is valid for entry at both Kipahulu and Summit districts for three days. Park entry without a vehicle - hikers or cyclists - is $15 per person. America the Beautiful and other passes are also valid for entry at the Kipahulu District. As an aside, if I know or suspect that I'll be traveling to more than one National Park Service or Bureau of Land Management (like Red Rocks Canyon in Nevada) unit in a year, I get the annual America the Beautiful pass, because those day-use fees add up quickly.
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