Minnesota, like most states – and particularly those in the Midwest – has a complicated, often dark, history surrounding its relationship with the Native peoples who occupied its landscape before settlement. One of the key sites in that history is Traverse des Sioux, near the present-day city of St. Peter. Now a park and historic site, Traverse des Sioux was home to a bustling village, first occupied by the Dakota people who were later joined by White fur traders, then settlers. It was also the site where a notorious 1851 treaty was signed. Walking these historical trails in Minnesota, along the river and over the lands where the long-gone settlement once lay is, likewise, complicated: simultaneously beautiful and haunting.

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If you follow the Minnesota River valley from St. Peter to Mankato, and on toward its headwaters at Big Stone Lake, you’ll encounter several state, local, and tribal historical sites that interpret the Dakota people’s history in and relationship to the land that is now the United States and southern Minnesota – and the effects of broken treaties and settlement on the Dakota. When I visit such sites, I usually take a weekend to road trip to a few of them. I find it helps me to gain greater context than I would from visiting a single place. Many sites, like Traverse des Sioux and the Treaty Site History Center, demand repeat visits, as the landscape is constantly changing, and there are always new insights and perspectives to be gained.

Have you hiked the ghostly trails of this abandoned village along the Minnesota River? Let us know in the comments.

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