Approximately 450 feet underground, below the streets of Oahu, sits a true feat of engineering: a massive, little-known tunnel, a rail car and subway named the Howling Owl and 20 massive fuel tanks the tunnel system was built to store. This is the Red Hill Underground Fuel Storage Facility, a top secret military facility built during the early 1940s for wartime use. Did you know about these Hawaii underground tunnels? Let's take a look...
Editor's note: Please not that this tunnel is not open to the public.
The facility was decommissioned in the 1990s, and is now considered to be one of Hawaii's greatest engineering feats, placed alongside the Hoover Dam, the Eiffel Tower, and the Panama Canal as an important historic landmark. But yet, very few people actually know much about the secret facility, and even fewer have been inside.
That's because tightened security after 9/11 made the underground tunnel off limits to the general public. The only pictures we could find are courtesy of the United States Navy, and civilians are almost never granted access to the facility.
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Construction on the underground facility began in 1940, and was completed in 1943, as a means to protect Pearl Harbor's fuel supply in case of an attack.
The impenetrable, bombproof facility is home to 20 reinforced concrete fuel tanks hollowed out of volcanic rock, each roughly the size of the 23-story Ala Moana building. Red Hill can hold approximately 252 gallons of diesel and jet fuel, and can provide fuel to Pearl Harbor, Hickam Air Force Base, and even Barbers Point Naval Air Station.
Located 100 feet under a ridge in Honolulu, construction on the facility continued after the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor, and though more than 3,900 workers were involved with construction, Red Hill's existence remained classified for five decades.
Though this Hawaii underground tunnel is now known to the public, Red Hill's history is a relative mystery. It is said that dozens of fuel leaks occurred at the site throughout the last seen decades, and while testing suggests that the water found near the facility is safe for drinking, the jury is still out on the environmental impact of this massive, secret underground tunnel system.
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For a more comprehensive lesson about the tunnels history and construction, be sure to watch this video uploaded by the U.S. Fleet Forces Command in 2011, less than 20 years after the site was declassified.
Did you know about this impressive fuel storage facility hiding underneath the island? Learn about another little-known little know feat of engineering and wartime relic, the Waikiki Natatorium, here.
Best Travel Gifts of 2024, Hand-picked by Our Travel Experts
If you're looking for gifting ideas for the travelers in your life this holiday season, check out our list of our favorite, tried and true travel gifts.
Welcome to Hand-Picked, a curated series highlighting the travel gear and goods our staff truly love. From practical essentials to playful extras, these are the items that make travel fun—and shopping even better! Each pick is independently selected by our editors, and if you make a purchase through our links, Only In Your State may earn a commission.
There is nothing that makes me happier than picking out the perfect gift. Friends often ask me for ideas of what to gift to their family, children, partners, friends... the challenge of finding that special item (or experience) is my favorite kind of adrenaline rush. And because of this, the holiday season is like my version of sky diving.
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Our team of travel experts here at Only In Your State joined me in selecting our favorite travel gifts of the season. We've hand-picked 24 gifts that we own and love and would joyfully wrap up with a shiny bow for other travel lovers in our lives. We've chosen a variety of options, from candles to books, to the perfect travel shoes and bags. There is also a wide range of prices for any gifting budget. Pick out a few to gift this season and maybe even send some of these ideas to those who are shopping for you. It may be the holiday season, but it is also always travel season in our minds.
Why We Love Them: How fun is this candle? I love picking out meaningful gifts and this one is perfect for the woman in your life who can't help but plan another trip. Or, maybe this is you and this candle needs to make its way into your own stocking! The LEADO store on Amazon actually has several unique gifts and it's worth checking out. Where to Buy Them: Shop this candle and more on Amazon. Price (at time of publication): $16.99 Bonus: Manager of Editorial Megan Shute swears by these rechargeable USB lighters – add one to your favorite candle lover's stocking, and they will not be disappointed.
Why We Love It: We've tried some pretty spiffy eye masks, but have you ever experienced an eye massager? The Bob & Brad EyeOasis 2 is as relaxing as it gets. With adjustable pressure & heat settings, this is a must-have if you want to tune out the world and treat yourself. It's the first thing we reach for when we feel a migraine coming on! Where To Buy It: Buy Now On Amazon Price (at time of publication): $59.99 (normally $74.99)
Why We Love Them: It's safe to say I am in my sneaker era and I know I'm not alone. When I discovered Kizik shoes, especially their sneakers, I felt like I discovered gold at the end of the rainbow. I love that the brand is size inclusive (I have big feet) and you literally just slip these on and go. Hands-free shoes! This makes them perfect for travel and the fact that these go with everything means no over-packing necessary. Where to Buy Them: Check out the Milan sneaker and several other styles (boots, too!) on the Kizik website. Price (at time of publication): $149
Why We Love Them: I discovered Frankie Jean while in Austin with my daughter and once I saw the Y'ALL Baseball Cap, I knew it would make the perfect souvenir -- and travel hat! I always travel with a baseball hat; they're handy for post-plane hair and offer protection from the elements. Frankie Jean has an array of adorable caps for non-y'allers, too, with all 50 states represented in the web store. Where to Buy It: Visit Frankie Jean online for this hat and many others! Price (at time of publication): $32
Why We Love Them: The Yoto Mini is an excellent gadget for kids on the go. Physical cards allow children to expand their imagination through audiobooks, music, activities, and educational audio. Manager of Editorial Megan Shute purchased the mini-player for her daughter's 4th birthday earlier this year ahead of an overseas move and has been endlessly impressed: "Not only did it replace her standard sound machine with its white noise options, but it has given us another portable screen-free entertainment option for at home and while traveling. The Yoto is also perfect for anyone who asks what your child wants for the holidays — cards for their new Yoto collection, please!" Where to Buy Them: Yoto is available on their website and Amazon. Price (at time of publication): $69.99 for player
Why We Love Them: The Vuori Performance Joggers might just be the most comfortable piece of clothing we own. The buttery-soft, stretchy material is the perfect weight, and the slim yet relaxed fit is one of the most universally flattering styles we've tried. Engagement Editor Meg Archer has gifted these to many people over the last few years: "I have yet to hear anything but rave reviews (and a bit of friendly shaming for spawning new obsessions). Don't be surprised if these just so happen to, umm... multiply... in your closet. I couldn't stop at just one pair." Bonus: The matching Vuori Halo Performance Hoodie is one of our favorite lightweight layers for all types of travel! Where To Buy Them: Buy Now From Vuori Price (at time of publication): $94
Why We Love Them: If you have a friend or family member who loves to travel and loves bags (who doesn't?), then this Calpak tote bag is the ultimate gift. When I say ultimate, I mean it, because this is the ultimate bag. My own tote bag is pictured above, when used on an overnight trip. I've also used it as a carry-on bag on flights, to tote sports equipment around for my kids, and for a weekend getaway. It is much larger than it looks in this photo and keeps everything organized. It also wipes clean! Where to Buy Them: Calpak has countless travel bags, but you can find this particular one on their website. Price (at time of publication): $131.75
Why We Love Them: I've purchased two of these portable hammocks with lightweight frames throughout the years — one as a gift for my father and one for myself after realizing how fantastic the hammock was. While it's not a travel product, per se, it has made my everyday life feel more like a vacation, something we could all use a bit more of these days. Where to Buy Them: Buy Now On Amazon Price (at time of publication): $69.99
Why We Love Them: All of the staff at Only In Your State loves to represent their roots and Wear Your Roots allows you to do that in a fashionable - and comfortable - way. We love the wears from this Montana-based company and we happen to believe that these hoodies, shirts, hats, and more make the perfect gift. Where to Buy Them: Shop now on the Wear Your Roots website Price (at time of publication): Varies by Product
Why We Love It: It's taken several trips for me to figure out my perfect "weekender bag that's TSA approved," but I've found my perfect carry on with the TOBIQ Colorado 30L. An Instagram ad caught my eye during a late-night scroll session and I was intrigued by the colorful compartments and versatility of the bag, which can be carried as a duffle or as a backpack (I prefer the backpack for even weight distribution and airport navigation.) Made of durable, weather-resistant recycled materials, I've stashed this bag under my seat and in the overhead compartment; it's easy to maneuver and the top zip pocket is perfect for easy phone/ID access. Bonus: I loved this carry on bag so much, I purchased TOBIQ's Toiletry Bag; it fits perfectly inside one of the Colorado's four compartments and has a smart, intuitive design with the brand's signature "plethora of zippered pouches and pockets."
Where to Buy Them: Visit tobiqtravel.com to purchase the Colorado 30L and/or Toiletry Bag. Price (at time of publication): $199 (Colorado 30L)/$69 (Toiletry Bag)
Why We Love Them: The Zestt Dreamsoft Travel Scarf doubles as a blanket, making it the perfect travel accessory for year-round adventures – especially on airplanes! Made from organic cotton and easy to wash and care for, we have even used this piece as a makeshift picnic blanket while traveling. Where to Buy Them: Buy Now On Amazon Price (at time of publication): $50
Why I Love It: This raincoat is absolutely perfect: it's light (12.4 ounces!) and super packable, "self stuffing" into one of its pockets in a Houdini-like feat. The hood is generously sized to fit over a hat and has a cord-and-hook design that keeps rain out (seriously -- this photo was taken after a trip to Portland, Oregon, where its water resistance was put to the test!). I purchased my Torrentshellfive years ago and it still looks brand new, the fabric has never snagged or ripped despite being put through the ringer! Bonus: The Patagonia Torrentshell 3L Rain Jacket comes in men's sizes, too! Where to Buy It: Buy it now on REI. Price (at time of publication): $179 (both men's and women's)
Why We Love Them: I love gifting books. Maybe it's the writer in me or the nostalgia I feel every time I sit down and open up an actual book. Coffee table books make for great gifts and I absolutely love this collection of photography of New York City. Whether you know someone who loves NYC or has a wanderlust for the Big Apple, this gorgeous book just needs a bow on top and it's ready to gift. Where to Buy Them: Buy this book and others in the collection on Amazon. Price (at time of publication): $19.78
Why We Love Them: A well-stocked first aid kit is essential for any traveler, and we love these small Welly kits. They're the perfect option to keep in your car, diaper bag, or carry-on for accidents on the go. Another excellent stocking stuffer for anyone in your life. Where to Buy Them: Buy Now On Walmart Price (at time of publication): $9.70
Why We Love Them: The OluKai Pehuea Lī Sneaker is lightweight and breathable, but also extremely comfortable and surprisingly supportive. It's our go-to shoe when we know we're going to be on our feet all day! We love that they can be worn as either sneakers or slides, so they're easy to slip off when going through TSA checks. Plus, the style goes with just about everything. Where To Buy Them: Buy Now From OluKai Price (at time of publication): $110
Why I Love It: Fact: Airplanes are notoriously dry, dry, dry. No matter how much water I drink both before and during the flight, I always find myself in a hydration deficit for days. My skin feels so tight and parched during flights, and while I've been known to slap on a sheet mask at 12,000 feet, my 11 year old's mortification on a recent trip had me rethinking this strategy. My solution? BioRepublic's Lost Baggage biocellulose eye masks. These mini moisturizers contain an uber-hydrating cocktail of peptides, hyaluronic acid, squalene, rose water, and vitamin E that feel oh-so-refreshing on parched skin. Bonus: Each of these little masks has enough moisture that I'm able to massage the excess into the rest of my face after my brief, in-flight spa moment. Where to Buy It: I have a BioRepublic Lost Baggage Under Eye Emergency Repair Mask Subscribe & Save order through Amazon -- you'll get a slight discount if you set this up! Price (at time of publication): 3/$15.00
Why I Love It: I am a dedicated Stanley girl, but when I travel, I like to keep things as light and portable as possible. A recent trip to Washington D.C. had me singing the praises of my Hydaway Collapsible Water Bottle, especially after paying $6 for a tiny bottle of water the afternoon we arrived and embarked sans water. I love the bottle's muted color options (I have the Hydaway in Twilight), sturdy handle, and fuss-free cleaning; fully extended it holds 17 ounces of water, making this smart little number perfect for filling up on the go. Where to Buy Them: The Hydaway Collapsible Water Bottle is available at several online merchants; I purchased through REI. Available here on Amazon. Price (at time of publication): $27.95.
Why We Love Them: This is one of those things that we don't know how we traveled without them. Packing cubes keep things organized, save space in a suitcase, and take the pain out of the packing process. If you know and love someone who travels, this set would make the perfect gift. Where to Buy Them: There are so many options for packing cubes on Amazon, but we particularly LOVE this set. Price (at time of publication): $16.99 for 8 cubes
Why We Love Them: I've been a fan of Beis for years now, starting with the Weekender (it’s my absolute favorite travel bag for short car trips or flying and is surprisingly roomy). I recently purchased another Beis item — the backpack. With a padded interior sleeve, two water bottle pockets, and plenty of organization built-in — we’re talking zippered interior pockets, pen slots, a key leash, and more — this is the best backpack I’ve ever owned. It also has a full-zip opening, so it’s easy to pack, and the trolley pass-through makes it the perfect carry-on companion. This olive beauty is officially my new favorite personal item while traveling, and I’ve already brought it on several trips. Where to Buy Them: Buy Now On Beis Price (at time of publication): $88
Why We Love Them: We bought this set of two accessory organizers for a recent trip and think they would make a fun stocking stuffer filled with all sorts of small and useful travel goodies — chapstick, hair ties, mini lotions, bandaids, etc. The gift recipient can then use the organizers for travel. Where to Buy Them: Buy Now On Amazon Price (at time of publication): $17.66
Why We Love It: The sleek style of the Away Everywhere Zip Backpack looks at home in just about any environment, making it a great transition bag if you need to hop right from a flight into a work meeting (or want to start exploring as soon as you land). It's water-resistant, has a padded laptop sleeve to keep your devices safe, and the full wrap-around zipper makes it incredibly easy to grab what you need in a cramped airplane seat. I love it! Where To Buy It:Buy Now From Away Price (at time of publication): $195
Why We Love It: Engagement Editor Meg Archer recently travel-testedthis high-end aluminum travel case, and it can only be described as the Lamborghini of Luggage: "The Sterling Pacific 40L Travel Case is hands down the best I've ever owned or reviewed. It's stunning inside and out, timelessly stylish, and rolls like a dream. Honestly, I didn't know luggage could move like this." It's undeniably a splurge, but if you're looking for a piece of eye-catching yet understated luxury-tier luggage, this is it. Where To Buy It: Buy Now From Sterling Pacific Price (at time of publication): $2,150
Why We Love It: Throw out all your assumptions about generators. The Anker Power Bank Portable Generator is all-electric (so it's totally silent), super compact, and has a massive 60,000 mAh capacity that can power multiple devices dozens of times on a single charge. It also retains an impressive 85% charge after a whole year of non-use, making it absolutely vital during emergencies. This bad boy kept us in touch with family during a multi-day blackout, but we also love it for camping trips and off-grid adventures. Where To Buy It:Buy Now On Amazon Price (at time of publication): $149.99
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If you need anymore ideas for the best travel gifts of the season, we have you covered. Check out more of our travel-themed gift guides...
I mean, I love it, and, frankly, like a lot of other haoles, I kind of want to be Hawaiian. At the same time, I lament the parts I've played in the problems caused by tourism, as well as the appropriation and dilution of Hawaiian culture. Clearly, I could just stay away and leave it at that. But I don’t. So, I always try to be respectful, buy local, donate to local food banks, generally practice Leave No Trace principles, and then go home.
I don’t own property on the islands or anything like that, but I know I speak from a position of extreme privilege. In the last two decades, I’ve visited Hawaii a dozen or so times – often staying a couple of weeks or more, almost always in a VRBO or Airbnb. Maui is the island that’s hosted me most frequently, and with the sole exception of my most recent visit, I’ve always stayed in Lahaina, not far from Pu’unoa (Baby) Beach. For much of their lives, my (now adult) kids thought of Lahaina as almost a second hometown; it’s the place they spent the most time outside of Minnesota.
Obviously, that all changed in August 2023. When I saw the devastation from the wildfires, I wasn’t sure if I could return to Maui. I donated what I could and followed news of the shock, displacement, anger, and slow recovery from a distance. I felt like a part of me was gone, but simultaneously, I also felt it wasn’t my place to feel that way, so I stayed away.
Several months later, I started seeing news stories implying that staying away was hurting the Valley Isle and the tourist-dependent economy needed visitors. After a few weeks of hemming and hawing, I decided to make the trip. I found an Airbnb in Pa’ia, then booked a flight, and headed to Maui for five days – my shortest-ever visit to Hawaii.
When my Airbus from the mainland rounded Haleakala, and I saw Molokini silhouetted against the sun, which was dipping below the horizon between Lanai and Kaho’olawe, my throat caught. Stepping off the plane on a Thursday evening, the humid air soaking into my winter-dried face, seeing the familiar, outdated decor of the Kahului airport, I practically wept. But the business of the airport – luggage, rental car, etc. – pressed, and I got down to it.
I’d decided beforehand that I wouldn’t go to Lahaina or even visit that side of the island. Clean-up efforts were ongoing, and I didn’t feel I had a place being there. I felt a bit of a pull, but I kept my word to myself. The closest I got was the overlook just west of McGregor Point, where I spent a few hours watching humpbacks breach and slap their tails to the (I assume) delight of the passengers on the crowded boats watching the whales.
I discovered my new favorite breakfast place in Hawaii – Tasty Crust in Wailuku – as well as an incredible plate lunch at Da Kitchen in Kihei. I strolled the paths at Iao Valley State Monument, which now requires a timed entry permit for visitors, and I hiked at the Haleakala Summit - but not for sunrise because I couldn’t get a timed entry permit for the dates I was on the island. But that’s okay; I’m more of a sunset guy, anyway.
I like birds, so I ended up visiting the Summit District of Haleakala National Park three times on my trip. The high-altitude forest near Hosmer Grove is one of the final holdouts for some of the most endangered species of birds on the planet. Mongooses, feral cats, and pigs, as well as habitat loss and non-native bird species – all introduced thanks to missionaries and colonialism – have decimated their numbers. I saw hunting pueos – Hawaiian short-eared owls – each day I was on Haleakala’s shoulders. Threatened, themselves, they’ve adapted and shifted their diets. Instead of hunting Hawaiian honeycreepers, they now prey on mongooses – a glimmer of hope in this most fragile of ecosystems.
And there I was, pasty in a hat and sunscreen, pointing my camera lens out the window of my white, rental Pacifica, bearing witness to it all.
For the first three days on Maui, I avoided a thing I knew I had to do. I was staying in Paia, after all, and I hadn’t been on the island in a few years (my previous three trips had been to the Big Island). But I felt a need to drive the Road to Hana – one of the things I’d always loved about visiting Maui.
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Yet, it was a little fraught for me. Here’s the point where I need to disclose that this was also my first visit to Maui as a divorced guy. Every other time I’d visited the island, I’d been with my then-wife and still-kids (who’d both turned down joining me on the trip due to the short notice). And I’d always had a companion on the Road to Hana – usually my now-ex but, on occasion, a visiting friend. This would be my first time driving it alone, yet given the context of my visit, it seemed appropriate. Nevertheless, I still felt a little sad about the idea (oh, there’s the waterfall where we frolicked, etc.) and was dreading the drive.
The fact that it was raining when I pulled away from Ho’okipa Beach, where I’d stopped to watch the surf roaring in, the wind blowing back the wave crests into plumes of mist, made me feel a little better. The amount of traffic I encountered on a rainy Sunday morning did not. While I cursed the vans and cars and buses on the road, I kept reminding myself that I, in my luck-of-the-draw-because-it-was-cheaper-why-didn’t-I-rent-a-Jeep Pacifica minivan, was not part of the solution.
I made few stops along the way because most of the limited parking areas were full. Instead, I simply slowed for the waterfalls and viewpoints, taking in what I could from the driver's seat. There would be no frolicking on this trip, regardless. While I was at the village of Ke'anae, on a small peninsula quilted with taro fields and one of the most beautiful communities in the Aloha State, standing on the jagged shoreline watching waves crash, two – two! – tour buses pulled in and discharged dozens of tourists. On previous visits, I encountered few, if any, other tourists in Ke'anae – other than myself and my traveling companions, of course.
This was the story down the length of the Hana Highway. On the side road to Wai'anapanapa State Park – for which I’d managed to secure my timed entry tickets – I crept over the potholed asphalt, trying not to break an axle or bust a ball joint. A white pickup roared by me on the left, a local loudly voicing his displeasure out the open window as they passed. I was mad because WTF? But I was also dejected because I knew he was right. Slow tourists clogging narrow, one-and-half-lane roads when folks are trying to get home, to work, or go about their business, could only be frustrating (especially since – given the number turned away in front of me – many folks didn’t seem to know they needed reservations and shouldn’t have been on the road in the first place).
The park, of course, was full. I had to jockey for a space in the lot, then descend the steps with a throng of other visitors to the crowded black sand beach below. I walked around a bit, took a few photos, and left. In Hana, which lends the road its name, it felt like there was a little more elbow room. Only one or two other customers were in the Hasegawa General Store, and the Hana Maui Resort (formerly the Hotel Hana Maui) didn’t look like it was booked to capacity.
On the previous half-dozen or so times I’d driven the road to Hana, I’d, of course, seen other people, but I’d never seen so many – and this wasn't even the busy season yet. I was looking forward to the next stretch – from Hana to the Kipahulu District of Haleakala National Park – because many visitors turn around at Hana and head back. The narrow, pitted road between Hana and the park was certainly less crowded than the first leg of the Hana Highway had been, but there was more traffic than I’d remembered, and the Wailua Falls parking area was, not unexpectedly, full – as was the lower parking lot at the Kipahulu visitor center.
And this was at a time when Maui was lamenting its lack of visitors. In the few years between my visits to the island, something had clearly happened. The number of tourists had exploded, and what I perceived as “crowded” was now considered a low turnout. At least, that was my thought. Prior to the Maui wildfires, in fact, there had been a push to defund the Hawaii tourism authority and stop marketing the state as a tourist destination.
Leaving the Kipahulu district parking lot, I turned left – as was my custom – instead of turning right, back toward Hana, Pa’ia, and Kahului. Taking this route around the far side of Haleakala – from Kipahulu to UIupalakua – was usually the best way to experience the beauty of Maui without the tourist throngs. My favorite itinerary was to head out on the Road to Hana in the morning, circumnavigate the volcano, and end up at the Haleakala summit for sunset. And that’s what I did on this visit.
I did get briefly slowed behind a vanful of tourists on the single-lane road, but other than that, I saw nobody but a few locals in the 30 miles around the remote base of Haleakala. I was in heaven. Largely empty Maui roads, mostly to myself, sweeping views out over the Pacific and mauka to the summit. But on this trip, it began to occur to me that, as welcome as this empty road was to me, the sight of my white rental Pacifica was a sure sign to those living on this side that tourists were encroaching on their last vestige of an untrammeled Maui.
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I ended my adventure on the summit of Haleakala for sunset – among the droves of visitors (topmost parking lot long-closed as full) – before heading back down to my Airbnb. The next day, I was scheduled to fly home, and I just wasn’t sure what to do. I grabbed another breakfast at Tasty Crust, then went back to Ho’okipa where I lingered, watching monk seals playing in the surf and surfers trying to catch a wave.
Maui wasn’t the same for me. And it was as much me as it was the island. My sense of being part of the problem loomed larger than it ever had. But I still felt that familiar pang of not wanting to leave. Not yet, anyway. Nevertheless, when the wheels of my plane lifted off the tarmac, I couldn’t help but wonder if this was “Aloha” for the last time.
