A truly immersive historical experience in Virginia usually requires a trip to Williamsburg or Colonial Jamestown, both highly recommended and for good reason. On a picture-perfect October evening, however, I ventured down the James River on a 19th-century-style batteau, and my understanding of our state's history and natural landscape has greatly benefitted.
James River Batteau Company has been leading tours along the James River in Scottsville since 2020, when its founders, both named Will and both hailing from Amherst County, brought a very unique vision to life. Batteaux — boats designed specifically to navigate James River waterways — have been engrained in Virginia's history, but stories of the batteaumen have largely been untold. Until now.
My father and I arrived in Scottsville half an hour before our Sunset Cruise, which allowed us plenty of time to stretch our legs and tour Canal Basin Square Park before our 4:45 p.m. tour time. This outdoor transportation park tells the story of Virginia's James River and Kanawha Canal, spanning the Native American Monacans to the railroads. The park set the stage perfectly for our own river adventure, and after having finished a brief self-guided tour, we were welcomed aboard the batteau.
It's one thing to admire a thoughtful display of river vessels, as we did at the park; it's another thing entirely to step onto one. The small, well-crafted boat sat six of us quite comfortably, including our two guides. During our tour, a second batteau was fastened to ours with another group of six. Both groups were seated around tables carefully set with napkins and glasses in place.
The James River is beautiful every day of the year, but on this particular afternoon, it was as smooth as glass. Co-founders Will Smith and Will Cash welcomed us aboard and began a wonderfully detailed and engaging presentation on the history of James River and the batteau, starting at the very beginning. Listening to this story, we envisioned the Indigenous Americans who expertly navigated the waterways. We also learned about the invention of the batteau, which was necessary for voyaging and transporting goods along Virginia's narrow inland waters.
Here's something I didn't know until taking the tour: batteaux were at the very heart of the country's trade efforts, carrying valuable goods like tobacco from the Piedmont to Richmond. This was the reason, in fact, that Virginia grew to be such a prominent state and facilitated the westward expansion.
We then learned about the intricacies of batteau work and transportation. Sadly, we don't have many accounts of the batteaumen, as most were enslaved people. The existing records originate from diaries and literature and unfortuantely, no firsthand accounts exist. Here's what we do know: the work was challenging, unforgiving, and at times, dangerous.
The tour reveals some fascinating tidbits of history, some nearly unbelievable, but I won't spoil them here; I'd recommend hearing them on the water.
About forty-five minutes later, when we arrived at our anchor point, there was time for questions, and then, food was served. Each pair of guests received an impressive charcuterie board featuring meats, cheeses, crackers, and other seasonal accouterments. It was, I think, the perfect addition to the experience. Ice buckets are also provided for anyone who brings their own beverage to enjoy. Otherwise, water is provided.
While we filled up on these provisions, anchored in place, we enjoyed live music and conversation with our fellow passengers. We were all in agreement: this was an unforgettable experience on the water and we couldn't wait to come back to do it again. The scenery was magnificent, and I loved watching the sunset dip below the water as a flock of geese called out overhead. Batteaux are still an uncommon way to travel, but thanks to this tour, their existence will no longer be lost to history. Each year, there's a celebration known as the James River Batteau Festival, an 8-day event that moves along the 200-year-old route from Lynchburg to Richmond.
There are so many reasons to enjoy this experience on the water, but one of the less tangible things I perhaps enjoyed most was being decidedly unhurried. This quote inscribed on one of the plaques at Canal Basin Square Park about inland river travel seems to summarize it perfectly: "[This] mode of travel, which now seems so antiquated, so slow and tedious, was in harmony with the spirit and customs of old Virginia. We were a leisurely people, eminently social in our instincts and habits, and we did not care to rush through life, whether traveling or at home."
Work and life on the James are indeed slow; each move is deliberate, and planning is crucial. About halfway through our trip, we learned that our guides had built the batteau themselves out of white oak planks — yet another case in point of how good things on the James take time.
James River Batteau Company offers a series of tours in addition to the Sunset Cruise, including a classic River Cruise and a Farm-to-Batteau Cruise. Each tour lasts about two hours. Curious to learn more about these historic tours near Charlottesville? Visit the official James River Batteau Company website and book your adventure today!
Subscribe to our newsletter
Get the latest updates and news
Thank you for subscribing!
